“I’ve lived in New York since I finished college,” Ellen told me, “except for one year.”

In 1977, she ventured to Los Angeles to pursue a career in acting. Along the way, she also took cooking classes. 

“I was kind of lonely, and I didn’t have many friends, so it was a way for me to socialize,” she explained. “But I also learned a lot from it.”

The commute was long (Ellen lived in the Hollywood Hills, and the cooking school was in Santa Monica) but undoubtedly worth it. 

First, she learned about nouvelle cuisine, a new style of cuisine that came into vogue when Ellen landed in Los Angeles.

“It was French cooking, but without all the fats and creams,” she recalled. 

Ellen also took a class on party recipes. Each week brought foods from a different country; there was a Thai week, a Scandinavian week, a Spanish theme, and more. Ellen sifted through piles of printed recipes as she took me through her year of culinary exploration. 

“For the Scandinavian theme, I remember making gravlax with dill sauce from scratch, and a cold cucumber soup,” Ellen said. She had never cooked with aquavit before, so recalled it vividly.  

“I loved the class,” she continued, “so much so I took it twice, and then she asked if I wanted to be an assistant, so I did it, and I didn't have to pay her.”

When I asked if she felt as if she found what she was looking for in the class, Ellen nodded, sure of her answer.

 “I think it gave me what I needed.”